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Why You Need to Travel the Arctic Coast Way

Jul 10, 2020

Why You Need to Travel the Arctic Coast Way

By Chris Ayliffe

If you’re planning a visit to Iceland’s north in the future then we have a treat for you. The North of Iceland has always been a smouldering pot of volcanic landscapes, rich folklore, impressive waterfalls and some of the most beautiful fjords and fishing towns you can find anywhere in the world.

However, where most travellers will tick off the main sights of Mývatn, Dettifoss and Goðafoss, they will frequently miss out on the North’s most precious hidden gems such as the ‘Whale Watching Capital of Europe, Húsavík.

To solve this issue, we present to you the unique and immense driving experience of the Arctic Coast Way. This takes you well away from the famous Route 1 ring road, and on to Iceland’s more enticing country roads away from the regular traffic and allowing you to enjoy every peninsula of the North.

In this blog, I’ll walk you through all the best spots and stop offs on this route, covering interests for photographers, historians, geologists and just plain adventure lovers. 

What is the Arctic Coast Way?

The Arctic Coast way is a 900km (560 mile) route that winds through the incredible fjords along Iceland’s northern coastline. These include fjords from Miðfjörður by the Vatnsnes peninsula all the way to Bakkafjörður in the north-east of Iceland.

The route travels through some of the most incredible and surreal views of Iceland which include the following: fishing towns, seal watching, whale watching, a beer spa, an outdoor infinity pool, the home of the hidden people and some of the most incredible views around.

This spectacular route winds through 21 villages and 4 islands in what has already become known as the third best journey in Europe according to the Lonely Planet’s Best in Europe 2019 list. The route is so new and fresh to travellers, that at the time of writing, it doesn’t even have it’s own wikipedia page.

What are the Best Stops on the Arctic Coast Way?

There are several spots along this route where you’ll want to take plenty of time to stop in. However, as I’m aware that not all of us will have unlimited time when visiting Iceland, I’ve condensed this list down to cover the highlights.

For the purpose of this blog, I will assume you are starting from the west having driven up from Reykjavik. You can, however, begin this journey in the east after having explored Iceland’s incredible East Fjords.

Hvammstangi
Hvammstangi Arctic Coast Way
The first stop on your journey will take you through the charming town of Hvammstangi, which is the largest town on the often overlooked Vatnsnes peninsula.

Set on the edge of the Miðfjörður fjord, this quaint town hosts a perfect treat for the animal lovers among you, the Seal Center. Here, you will get to understand about why the coastlines of this peninsula are rich in seal colonies, the best places to spot them and how careful you’ll need to be when approaching their habitats.

If you haven’t already, make sure you take advantage of gaining some food supplies for your journey around the rest of this peninsula, as there won’t be many opportunities in your next couple of hours.

Illugastadir Farm
Illugastaðir Illugastadir
After the seal geeks amongst you have taken the time to learn about these cheeky mammals, your next stop will give you the perfect opportunity to watch them in the wild.

Around a 20-minute drive from Hvammstangi along the coastal path northwards, you will arrive at Illugastadir Farm on your left-hand side. Not only is this one of the best stops in the country to check out a local seal colony, but it’s also steeped in history.

This farm is the location of the alleged murder of Natan Ketilsson and Petur Jonsson in 1829. 

Three of Natan’s workers were charged with his murder which included his housekeeper, Agnes Magnusdottir as well as Fridrik Siggurdsson and Sigridur Gudmundsdottir. However, the murders were never fully proven and Agnes and Fridrik received the death penalty, where the 17-year-old Sigridur was sent to a life sentence of prison in Denmark.

It’s a fascinating tale which brings this quiet peninsula to life, and was recently made into the historical fiction novel, Burial Rites, which is well worth reading before your visit.

You can then make your way down an easily walked pathway along the shores edge, down to the main location of the seal colony. Take your time to gaze out at these delightfully curious creatures, who will regularly swim close to investigate the latest travellers.

If you’ve brought lunch with you, there are some picnic benches and facilities provided next to the farm car park which you can use. Make sure to enjoy your lunch gazing out to shore to hopefully catch a final glimpse of some seals.

Hvitserkur
Hvítserkur Hvitserkur Rock
As you make your way round the dusty trails of the Vatnsnes peninsula, you’ll want to make sure you stop off at the landscape photographers dream spot of the Hvitserkur sea stack.

This sea stack is set around 20m off the coast with an adjacent small trickling stream coming from the shore, and framed by the stunning mountain ridges of the much untouched Skagi peninsula in the background.

When the tide is out, you’re able to walk out to this sea stack and explore it up close. Take your time to conclude your own answer to the dilemma of whether it looks more like a drinking elephant or a dragon.

Along the beach, you’ll see nesting birds in the summer months. These birds are also far from camera shy, and will make sure they get into your picture, even if that’s flying through the legs of Hvitserkur to get there (keep your finger on the shutter ready to catch them!).

Hofsós
Hofsós swimming pool Hofsós sundlaug
The next highlight will take you to Hofsós thermal pool on the ruggedly mountainous Tröllaskagi peninsula (Troll Peninsula).

This thermal pool, situated halfway up the peninsula's western side, is the perfect way to unwind after a long day of travelling with the most incredible views out to sea in front of you.

Rich in history as one of Iceland’s main trading ports since the 16th century, it was the trading post for the Danish Trade Monopoly as well as being close to some of the best fishing grounds in Iceland and a good place for boats to port. 

However, the town never grew much in size and now has around 200 inhabitants with a strong focus on the fishing industry.

Siglufjörður
Siglufjörður Siglufjordur Iceland Arctic Coast Way
At the very tip of the Tröllaskagi peninsula, and at the base of one of the most dramatic fjords in Iceland after a trip through a one-way tunnel, lies the charming fishing town of Siglufjörður.

Take your time to park up, taste some of the local seafood cuisine and take some incredible pictures of this breathtaking location. 

With rugged mountains all around you and a deep fjord in front of you this is a landscape photographer's paradise.

If you have time, make sure to check out the Herring Era Museum which explains the importance of the fishing industry for Iceland’s and Siglufjörður’s economy as well as their way of life. It also explains how Herring, in particular, was of significant importance to the people of Siglufjörður.

For the avid readers among you, Siglufjörður is also the town that forms the setting for Ragnar Jónasson's Dark Iceland series of detective novels. Reading a couple of these before your trip will bring this already beautiful setting to life even more.

Akureyri
Akureyri Iceland Norðurstrandaleið
Your next top spot is at what’s become known as the ‘Capital of the North of Iceland’, Akureyri.

Sitting as the base of Eyjafjörður Fjord, this is another scenic town worth taking a little extra time to explore. 

You’ll want to visit the quaint shopping streets, some of the local galleries, the large church in the centre of town built in 1940 as well as the northernmost botanical gardens.

If you’re visiting here in winter, it is one of the best locations in the country to watch the Northern Lights from. On a clear winter’s evening you can even get the most dramatic pink and blue hues surrounding the snow-covered mountains surrounding this prestigious fjord during the early twilight hours.

For the Christmas fanatics among you, you’ll want to make sure that you also take the 20-minute drive from town to the delightful Christmas House hidden a little further inland.

Take your time to admire this brilliant setup with some hot chocolate and roasted marshmallows by an outside fire, and get your picture with Santa’s drying washing.

Hrísey
Hrisey Hrísey
Hrísey is a small island off the coast of Iceland, around 35km (22 miles) north of Akureyri in the Eyjafjörður Fjord. 

As the second-largest island off the coast of Iceland (after Heimaey of Vestmannaeyjar), Hrísey is a bird watching utopia.

With no natural predators on the island, the birds have been able to flourish here in this tranquil natural bird sanctuary. In fact, the northern part of the island, known as Ystabæjarland, is a privately owned nature reserve, and the killing of birds is illegal across the whole island.

When you spend some well-earned extra time here, look out for Ptarmigans, Arctic Terns and the ever sought after Eider Duck amongst the 40 species that decorate this hidden gem.

Húsavík
The gem in the crown of the Arctic Coast Way is without a doubt Húsavík.

Known to travellers as the ‘Whale Watching Capital of Europe’, Húsavík resides on the shores of Skjálfandi bay with a population of around 2,300 (not including Will Ferrell and Rachel McAdams).

Incredibly, whale watching tours from Húsavík have had a whale spotting success rate of 98% which far exceeds most other locations in either Reykjavik or the Snæfellsnes peninsula.

Húsavík is also part of what’s known as the Diamond Circle, with the wonders of Lake Mývatn, Ásbyrgi Canyon and the mighty waterfalls of Dettifoss and Goðafoss. All of these incredible locations can be explored easily on a day trip from Húsavík.

Once you come back after a day of travelling, you can also relax at the Geosea sea baths. Here, you can take a dip in an infinity pool and let the mineral-rich seawater caress your skin as you watch whales swimming in the ocean below.

Most recently, Húsavík has had a bit of extra global fame thanks to the Netflix film, Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga. This epic comedy shows how the small town music act of Will Ferrell (Lars Erickssong) and Rachel McAdams (Sigrit Ericksdottir) keep their homegrown roots as they show the world their love of their hometown.
Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga

Ásbyrgi Canyon
Asbyrgi Ásbyrgi
Making up another point on the Diamond Circle trail is that of the horseshoe-shaped canyon of Ásbyrgi.

Translating to ‘shelter of the gods’, Viking settlers believed this incredulous canyon was formed by the stamping of Odin’s eight legged flying horse, Sleipnir, from Norse mythology.

However, in more modern times geologists believe Ásbyrgi was formed as the result of a catastrophic flood from the nearby Jökulsá river which feeds the stunning waterfalls of Dettifoss, Selfoss and Hafragilsfoss.

Some people, however, believe that Ásbyrgi Canyon is the capital of Iceland’s Hidden People.

As you walk through the beautiful terrain, take your time to admire the stunning surroundings and understand how the early settlers of Iceland came to make meaning of this unique location. 

Dettifoss
Dettifoss waterfall
As Europe’s most powerful waterfall, with a water flow of 193 m3/s down a 45m canyon 100m wide, this is an incredible spectacle to witness and photograph.

It’s most common for visitors to approach Dettifoss on the east side of the Jökulsá river where the road through Hólssandur is much easier to drive. Though, in winter months the western side is usually open for longer depending on snowfall.

On this east side of the waterfall, there’s a rough footpath down towards the falls which requires a lot of care when getting close to Dettifoss’s thunderous waters for the perfect photograph. Be sure to steer clear of the banks as well which can become very slippery when wet.

Alternatively, on the west side of Dettifoss, there is an observation platform which will provide a great view of the region (where the picture above was taken), as well as feel the mist of the waterfall below.

Make sure to take your time to walk carefully upstream to visit the waterfall of Selfoss, and downstream to Hafragilsfoss, which are also impressive feats of nature.

Lake Mývatn
Mývatn Lake Myvatn
Completing the Diamond Circle trail is Lake Mývatn. The name ‘Mývatn’ directly translates to ‘the lake of midges’ (or ‘midge water’) as a result of the large number of midges experienced in this region during the summer months.

Mývatn is a shallow lake sitting in one of the most active volcanic regions in the north of Iceland. The lake itself was created after a large basaltic lava eruption roughly 2300 years ago, and it sits within a volcanic landscape of craters, strange rock formations and ancient lava flows.

Most notably in this region is the fortress of Dimmuborgir. Though never an actual fortress, this is in fact a large area of bizarrely shaped volcanic caves and rock formations, greatly resembling castle walls and turrets.

As one of the most dramatic structures in Iceland, as you walk through and explore you can easily understand why it was once considered as a gateway to hell by some of the early Icelanders.

There is also the small lava cave of Grjótagjá, which is a beautiful geothermal hot spring, made more famous recently by its appearance in the hit HBO TV series, Game of Thrones.

Arctic Henge
Arctic Henge Heimsskautsgerðið
Raufarhöfn sits on the tip of the Melrakkaslétta peninsula, and hosts the spectacular stone arches and statues of Arctic Henge.

It was originally arranged as a monument to the country’s nordic routes as well to some the neo-pagan beliefs that have arisen in certain areas. 

Somewhat bizarrely, the construction started in 1996 and was inspired directly from the eddic poem Völuspá (Prophecy of the Seeress). It took the concept of 72 dwarves which represent the seasons in the world of the poem among other symbolisms.

As a result, Arctic Henge is planned to have 72 small blocks, each inscribed with a specific dwarven name encircling the four larger stone monuments in the middle. 

Each aspect of the layout corresponds to an aspect of ancient Norse beliefs, and once each piece of the monument is added, visitors will be able to witness the midnight sun, by viewing it through the formations at various vantage points.

However, at present Arctic Henge has not been completed. It is, however, more synonymous as the perfect foreground to some truly epic pictures taken of the Northern Lights.

What Are the Best Activities Along the Arctic Coast Way?

There are an incredible array of activities you could take up on your journey along the Arctic Coast Way. However, these are my top tips for those wanting to take advantage of the perfect balance of amazing adventures, relaxation and unique attractions along the way.

Whale Watching
Whale Watching Husvik Iceland
Without a doubt, a whale watching tours from Húsavík needs to be at the very top of your list.

The most regular whales you’ll get to encounter on an epic whale watching tour in Skjálfandi Bay are the humpback, minke, white-beaked dolphin, harbour porpoise and the blue whale. However, you may get lucky and see some more species of the twenty that are attracted to Iceland’s coastal waters.

With an incredible success rate of 98%, this is by far your best opportunity to get up close and personal to these gentle giants of the deep.

If you’re lucky enough, you’ll get to see great breaches of the stunning humpback whales who love nothing more than to surprise visitors to their homeland. However, more regularly you’ll see the grace of spouting blowholes and diving flukes as the whales offer glimpses of their world to you.

It’s an experience like no other in the arctic waters off the coast of northern Iceland. Each tour is never the same, with a different array of marine life showing off to the lucky visitors on board.

If you have time for only one activity, make sure it is a whale watching tour.

GeoSea
Geosea iceland husavik
The perfect way to unwind on your trip across the Arctic Coast Way are the geothermal waters of the GeoSea spa.

With an infinity pool filled with mineral-rich seawater, this is the perfect location for travellers to relax amid the tranquility of North Iceland.

Built into a cliffside which overlooks Skjálfandi bay, abundant in marine life, the views offer you an unparalleled panoramic view of the northern stretches of the Atlantic Ocean. What’s more, you can actually regularly spot whales in the ocean below while you bathe, making this attraction the undisputed champion of awesome geothermal spas.

There is also a built-in waterfall, steam room, restaurant and a swim-up bar. For those of you planning on visiting in the winter months, you will also have one of the best and most comfortable locations to gaze up into the Icelandic skies above in search of the ethereal Northern Lights.

Beer Spa
Beerspa north iceland beer spa
For those of you looking for a quirky and relaxing stop along your Arctic Coast Way journey, then look no further than Iceland’s very own Beer Spa.

Sitting in the village of Árskógssandur on the eastern side of the Tröllaskagi peninsula, the Beer Spa is a truly surreal experience. You lie in a bathtub filled with beer, water, hops and yeast for twenty five minutes before heading into the relaxation room for another twenty five minutes.

There are seven baths, which can take two people each, and you can even enjoy a nice cold one while you mix in the beer.

For beer lovers, this has to be the ultimate dream come true, and should most definitely not be missed for the sheer uniqueness of the experience.

Mývatn Nature Baths
Myvatn Nature Bath Mývatn jarðböð
North Iceland simply wouldn’t be complete without a trip to the Mývatn region; filled with an abundance of flora and birdlife in the summer months and an arctic wonderland during winter.

At the end of any day in this section of the Diamond Circle trail, you should make sure to take a stop off at the Mývatn Nature Baths.

Sitting at the base of the valley just before the námaskarð pass, the views across the region around are unparalleled in their beauty of the surrounding volcanic peaks and rising geothermal steams.

Whether you’re enjoying the selection of warm pools to watch the sunset, sunbathing under the twilight hours of the midnight sun or watching the Northern Lights, this should be on your list of activities.

Conclusion

The Arctic Coast Way is, without a doubt, one of the most rewarding journey’s you can take in Iceland. Whether you are planning on travelling under the long daylight hours of the midnight sun or the snowy winter days under the Northern Lights, this journey will be just as epic.

Make the most of this off the beaten path travellers trail and take advantage of the sights and sounds you’ll get to experience along the way. Keep plenty of supplies and take your time exploring each fishing town, geological site, waterfall, fjord and spa along your journey. 

Make sure to give us a ‘góðan dag’ (good day) as you pass by Húsavík, and be sure to tell us of your travels and the stories you have made. If you need a helping hand, don’t hesitate to get in touch.

If the Arctic Coast Way wasn’t on your agenda before, it most certainly should be now.

Guest Blog by Chris Ayliffe, Chief Marketing Officer at Traveo.

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